Hvar Travel Guide
a:Hvar
r:Split-Dalmatia
We moved to the island of Hvar in Croatia in April 2023 as I was starting a new job here. A complete lifestyle change from a large city to an island on the Adriatic coast. Something we have wanted to try for a while and now the chance was there. We celebrated my birthday with friends and family in Vienna at the end of March, said goodbye to the city we lived in for three years, packed all our things, and headed south. Off to a new country and new (island) adventure... What is it about Croatia? As for the facts, the country has a geographical size of 56 594 km2, has just under 4 Million inhabitants, has been part of the EU since 2023 and has a whopping total of 1,244 natural island formations, of which 78 are true islands, 524 are islets, 642 are cliffs and reefs. 49 of these islands are permanently inhabited, all of which are located relatively close to the shore. And Hvar , our destination is one of those 49, located in the region of Dalmatia with Split being the closest larger town and airport hub. The island is often called “sunny Hvar“ due to the annual average of 2726 hours of sunshine per year, that's 127 days of sun altogether! So far, so good :) Hvar is among the 10 most visited islands in Croatia. And history has left numerous traces on Hvar, perhaps more than on any other Adriatic island, due to its exceptionally significant location in the center of main nautical pathways. The first proof of life goes back to the pre-historic age and the City of Pharos in the area of todayʼs Stari Grad was founded by Ionian Greeks in 385 B.C. In 219 B.C. Hvar was conquered by the Romans, who had left a rich heritage of country mansions on the island. The arrival of Croatians in the early Middle Ages marked another significant stage in the development of the island. After they accepted Christianity, it started to spread into all the layers of the society and such traditions have been preserved even until today. In 1420, Hvar was then conquered by the Venetians who selected the city of Hvar as the main port for their seagoing projects. After the Venetians, Hvar was a part of Austria. It must be pointed out that in 1686 a group of people from Hvar founded a professional tourist association called the ʼHygienic Society of Hvarʼ whose goal was to promote and develop the tourist offer of Hvar. Therefore, this year is taken as the beginning of organised tourism on the island. In the years after WWII, Hvar turned into a fashionable tourist seaside resort and thanks to its interesting history and rich culture, which was under the influence of various civilizations, and its unsurpassable natural beauty, Hvar became one of the most attractive tourist destinations on the Adriatic. Since 1991, Hvar has been a part of the independent Republic of Croatia and has become the main focus of the general Croatian tourist offer. So much for the history of the island. This collection of ideas is here to guide you to explore traces of all of this, which we put together. Everything here has been experienced by ourselves and is our personal recommendation.
Where to stay on Hvar
a:Hvar
r:Split-Dalmatia
There are many different types of accommodation to choose from on the island. Depending on your budget and personal preferences, you will for sure find something that suits you. Here are my personal favourites! **Hotel:** Hvar's best and prettiest hotel, in my opinion, is (link: www.maslinaresort.com text: Maslina Resort) in Stari Grad. It is located next to the town in Maslinica Bay, opened its doors in 2020, and is part of Relais & Chateaux. If you are looking for authentic, luxurious, stylish accommodation, this may just be the place for you. **Self-Catering:** I am happy to recommend our friends places private accommodation for you to rent: - In the village of Vrbanj this amazingly renovated (link: (link: https://www.airbnb.de/rooms/877302293608769714?guests=1&adults=1&s=67&unique_share_id=1efb6afb-ecd8-49ab-973a-e6855582f7a2 text: Villa) text: "Villa Oaza"), an old Croatian winery and turned stunning Croatian Island Retreat. The owner did an amazing job transforming this into a beautiful holiday home. - In the town of Stari Grad, in the heart of the old town, the stunning Apartments of Amanda and Chris (link: https://www.hidden-house.com text: "Hidden House") are worth a visit. They both look after all their guests personally with a lot of attention to detail, a holiday home you will remember. There are many more options, if you have questions, please do reach out!
Our favourite beach clubs on Hvar
a:Jelsa
r:Split-Dalmatia
The choice is yours when it comes to Beach Clubs on the island. You can find them in many different shapes and sizes, from local and original to modern, Ibiza-like Beach Club, everything is on offer. Here are some of our favourites which we kept going back to: 1. (link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/LxdRtXDrMwMBwuq2A text: Sanpjerin Beach Club) Located at Ivan Dolac Beach on the south side of the island, this is a little further away from the crowds and one of our favourites. The design, the vibe, the view, and the glitzy water are hard to top and we keep going back here. Beautiful spot! 2. (link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/a1eSqJTW7dqTJCen9 text: Vaiana Beach) Vaiana is located close to the town of Stari Grad. You can either drive their, park next to the road and walk down to the water front or you take a taxi boat from Stari Grad and you will be dropped of directly at the Beach Club. Both options work well, the taxi boat is the cooler arrival experience. Vaiana is located in a beautiful bay with pristine turquoise water, just a few yachts that spend their day there and enough sunbeds to lounge around. The restaurant offers a great selection of food and drinks to enjoy a perfect beach day. 3. (link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/oSbCmGNzwizJ7dsR7 text: Carpe Diem Beach) Carpe Diem Beach, probably the largest beach club on the island, is located on one of the Paklini Islands, situated just in front of Hvar town. From Hvar town, take a taxi boat, which runs on regular intervals or on request and it takes you there in no time. Carpe Diem Beach is a beautiful beach club and restaurant offering amazing views, a great selection of sunbeds, amazing music, fast waiters and tasty food and drinks. This vibrant beach club is not a cheap option but also offers a perfect, carefree beach day. 4. (link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/4P4FvZdbuToMfZHN9 text: Pachamama) Saving the best for last... We discovered Pachamama for us only on 2024 and kept going back time after time. It is remotely located on the south side of the island, close to Hvar town. You can either drive and park at Pokonij Dol Beach and walk, or you can organise a taxi boat to reach Pachamama. It is scattered over the hill with a beautiful, simple and so tasty restaurant where all food is fresh and homemade. There are sunbeds on the hill and next to the shore from where you can jump straight into the turquoise water. This is my favourite spot for swimming, sunbathing and an a day with good food and good company. Do not miss this one ;) There are any more, this is just a small selection of the ones we personally tried while we lived on the island.
Eating and drinking on Hvar Island
a:Hvar
r:Split-Dalmatia
We like dining and drinking out and finding some cool, tasty, pretty and special places wherever we go. Here are some of our tips for Hvar Island: **Best View** at (link: https://alavia-soulfood.com text: Alavia), Velo Grabjle Go there for the view of Stari Grad, the island of Brac and the Dalmatian Coastline. Great terrace where you can also just have a coffee or a glass of wine to enjoy the view plus a restaurant with great Croatian food if you are hungry. Must Do: Sit on the swing to enjoy the amazing view! **Our favourites in Stari Grad** Restaurants: (link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/S71PhxooDZsFHPsa6 text: Kod Barba Luke), Stari Grad - beautiful terrace right in the center of town with views of the Marina. Amazing local food selection!! (link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/eUfCMcDcuSNBGp7m8 text: Antika), Stari Grad - located in the heart of the old town offering delicious, authentic, fresh and local food in a great ambiance. Service is excellent, love this place!! (link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/deRmt8h3H812kQDf6 text: Blue Doors,) Stari Grad - Great terrace with water views and best service in the town of Stari Grad. Food is authentic, tasty and local and the hospitality is amazing. It is a popular restaurant, so do make a reservation!! (link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/2cLtKfZgWdX84dDE7 text: Jurin Podrum), Stari Grad - Also located in a small street within the old town of Stari Grad. Best pasta in town, all homemade in many different varieties. (link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/AKzaQiMJcLEv2nU98 text: Dionis Restaurant), Stari Grad Plains - OPG located outside of town in the heart of Stari Grad Plains. Only outdoor seating available in a stunning garden. The restaurants also arranges pick-up and drop offs if you cannot get there. The food is authentic, local and delicious. A very simple, excellent experience. Great as a stop during the day or to spend a night with great food under the stars. (link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/c1HARX27rfp3L9wJ8 text: Nook), Stari Grad - Fusion Restaurant with the loveliest garden in town. Offering a different selection that most restaurants in town. My personal favourite is the Thai Curry but there are many delicious choices on the menu! Bar & Café: (link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/dPKPp1itDnVSu5sQ7 text: Fredy's Food Bar), Stari Grad - Great day time hang-out. Amazing coffee, great breakfast selection, beautiful terrace and ask for the ginger shot. It's home-made an excellent! (link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/Pq7HqpvQuVfVdVK27 text: Lukrecija Bar & Concept Store), Stari Grad - Beautiful, stylish bar for coffee during the day and amazing cocktails at night. And before or after your drink, you can go upstairs for some retails therapy. In addition to the bar, the space has an amazing concepts store with some lovely pieces ***Favourite Shop:********* (link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/bWMtebUD2KYRVuZb6 text: Hvar Bazaar,) Stari Grad - the most beautiful shop on the island with a great selection of pretty and useful some things. Buy jelly shoes to enjoy the Croatian beach, or some beautiful summer clothes, sunglasses, bathtowels and many other lovely pieces around the Mediterranean lifestyle. **Most Romantic Dining Experience** at (link: https://www.maslinaresort.com/experiences/dining/exclusive-seaside-dining text: Maslina Resort), Stari Grad Seaside Dining at its best. Sit on the waterfront with sunset views, having the full attention of the team just for you. Go for a special occasion or just because you can. **Great Konoba** to explore (link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/VhMKyPpA9tm3ZsR3A text: Konoba Vrsnik) beautifully located in the inland town of Vrsnik. Parking is available at the Konoba, and it is set with a beautiful garden, great local food, and charming service. Especially in high season make sure to reserve your table to avoid disappointment. **Beach Restaurant(s) (link: https://notoshvar.com/#notos-footer text: Notos) in Milna, located in a little bay next to the village of Milna. Pebble beach in front of the Restaurant, a stylish place with a great selection of Croatian dishes. Please check out the article specifically on Beach Clubs for more waterfront, daytime dining options.
Things to Do on Hvar
a:Hvar
r:Split-Dalmatia
If you are looking for things to do on the island, the choice is yours. Whether you are interested in nature, sports, water activities, history or everything together, you will for sure find something to do. **Sightseeing** In terms of general sightseeing there is also a large choice of activities. Highlights are the port town Hvar which include its 13th-century walls, a hilltop fortress and a main square anchored by the Renaissance-era Hvar Cathedral. The towns of Stari Grad and Jelsa are worth a visit and so are the six intangible and tangible (link: https://visithvar.hr/see-and-do/unesco-heritage/ text: UNESCO cultural heritages sites). The island also features so many beautiful beaches such as Dubovica and inland lavender fields which a great to visit during June / July time. Boat excursions serve the nearby Pakleni Islands, which have secluded beaches and coves. Plan ahead to be sure not to miss something you might be keen to see. **Stand-up Paddle Board** If you have your own and the winds allows, you can literally go anywhere, except the harbours or where the ferries and catamarans go. If would stick to all the bays around the island which are a paradise to discover with your SUP. If you are looking to rent one and you are staying in a hotel, they can arrange it for you. If you are staying in an apartment try (link: http://www.kayaksup-hvar.com text: Kayak and SUP) rental for all details. **Cycling** An amazing way to explore the island is by bike. There are many cycling routes all over the island and you can explore by yourself or you book a guided tour with (link: https://www.hvar.life text: Riccardo and his team), who are local experts in this field. We rented E-Mountainbikes and cycled up to the island highest peak, St. Nicolas. First on a paved road, then on gravel and back down all on a gravel, dirt road. What an experience... sometimes challenging as it was steep or there were many stones on the paths but nevertheless so worthwhile. Love exploring by bike, on of my favourite activities on Hvar!! **Olive Oil Tasting** Olive Trees are everywhere on Hvar and many families have their own Olive grove and meet every October to harvest the olives together. If you are traveling to Hvar in October, this is a great local activity and tradition to join. Some owners harvest the olives for themselves and their families. But some turned their Olive Grove into a thriving business and (link: https://seca-extravirgin-oliveoil.com/ text: Seca) did this beautifully. You can visit them and try their Olive Oil, right there where it came from. This "Olive Farm" is a stunning spot and worth the drive to a more remote part of the island. **Wine Tasting** There are a number of wineries you can visit on Hvar for a tasting. Personally I have only tried two and I can recommend both. They are very different and each offer a unique experience. (link: https://lfw.hr text: Lacman Winery) probably offers the best view as it is located in the small village of Selca, offering stunning views over the Dalamatian islands and coast. It is a family business, focussing on natural wines and all family members are involved. They produce a great selection of whites, reds and a rosé and my personal favourite is "Predobro", one of their amazing red wines. Another great winery on Hvar is "(link: https://www.hvarwine.com/ivo-dubokovic text: Dubokovic)" which offers a totally different wine tasting experience. Located in the town of Jelsa you will find another family winery, located in acellar and run by Ivo Dubokovic, who is an amazing storyteller. During a winetasting he shares his wine and his knowledge and is an amazing source of information on everything about Croatian wine making and his wines in particular. very worthwhile experience which I can wholeheartedly recommend. **Hiking** There are several excellent hiking tracks on Hvar, just bring hiking shoes or proper trainers and get started. The island is quite hilly and the paths can have many pebbles and stones, so shoes are important. You can hike along parts of the shoreline, hike in Stari Grad Plains or climb a hill. I also recommend using a guide so you don't have to worry about getting lost or missing the great lunch spot. This is a hike we did on our own and we loved it as you see the water all the way down the hill. Stunning views on this one, from #Velo Grablje - Milna: We started a little before the town Velo Grablje, from the restaurant “Alavia”, the highest point on the hill with 360-degree views of the islands. The track takes you from one of the highest points back down to the sea. This out-and-back trail is generally considered a moderately challenging route and should take about 3 hours to complete. This is a popular trail for the views, birding, hiking, and mountain biking, and is open year-round. This trail leads from Alavia, to the village of Velo Grablje, the Malo Garble, and on to Milna, which is located on the sea level. Velo Grablje is on the south side of the island, and was founded in the 14th century, and today the village is almost abandoned and has only a few permanent residents. From Velo Grablje, the trail follows the dry line of the stream and passes along Malo Grablje, and then continues towards Milna which is located in a protected bay with two sandy beaches, separated from each other by a pine forest. In Milna, there is a great choice of beaches and restaurants to rest and enjoy after this hike.
Last days of summer in Croatia
a:Hvar
r:Split-Dalmatia
Summer in Vienna was great, and quite long this year. But we missed the sea, the view of the ocean and especially that unique seaside smell which just makes me happy. So we booked a week off, got organised, packed the car and drove south. One of the beauties of Vienna is its location in Europe. The city is located quite far east and south, and one can easily drive to the Adriatic sea in under six hours. Croatia and specifically Istria, was our destination for the second time this year and here we have our top picks for a few fabulous days by the seaside.
